Euphyllia Care: How to Keep Torch, Hammer & Frogspawn Corals

Euphyllia are among the most popular LPS corals in the marine aquarium. Their long polyps, constantly swaying in the flow, bring movement to the reef, and many colour morphs glow intensely under blue light. At the same time, torch, hammer and frogspawn corals react noticeably to fluctuations in water parameters. In this guide you will learn what matters in Euphyllia care: from light and flow to placement and feeding.

Which Euphyllia species are there?

In the trade you will mainly come across three groups that are easy to tell apart by the shape of their tentacle tips:

• Torch coral (Euphyllia glabrescens): long, tube-shaped tentacles with round, often contrasting coloured tips. Grows in a branching form, with one head on each branch.
• Hammer coral (Euphyllia ancora, Euphyllia paraancora): tentacle tips shaped like a hammer or anchor. There are wall and branching forms.
• Frogspawn (Euphyllia divisa, Euphyllia paradivisa): branched tentacle tips reminiscent of frogspawn. Here too there are wall and branching forms.

A note on taxonomy: in more recent literature, hammer and frogspawn corals are assigned to the genus Fimbriaphyllia. In the hobby and the trade, however, the name Euphyllia is still common, and the classification does not change their care requirements.

Light: moderate intensity rather than full power

Euphyllia do well with moderate lighting. As a guide, around 100 to 250 PAR at the coral's position is recommended. Too much light often shows when the polyps no longer fully extend or the colour bleaches. If it is too dark, the animals often turn browner and grow more slowly.

Place a new coral in the lower to middle area of the tank at first and observe it for a few days. Only once the polyps open reliably can you move it gradually higher if needed.

Flow: movement yes, tugging no

You can recognise the right flow by the polyps themselves. They should sway gently back and forth without being pushed permanently in one direction. Variable, moderate flow is ideal. Flow that is too strong and direct causes the tissue to retract or get damaged at the edges. If flow is too weak, detritus and deposits can collect between the polyps.

Placement and distance to other corals

Euphyllia can defend themselves. The torch coral in particular forms long sweeper tentacles, which are extended far mainly at night and can sting neighbouring corals. So plan generous space:

• Keep a distance of at least 10 to 15 cm from other corals, and correspondingly more for large colonies.
• Bear in mind that the polyps often extend well beyond the edge of the skeleton when fully expanded.
• Hammer and frogspawn corals often get along well with each other. The torch coral, on the other hand, is better placed with some distance, including from other Euphyllia.
• A stable position on the reef or on firm substrate near the bottom has proven effective.

Water parameters for Euphyllia

For Euphyllia care, stability matters most. The following values are common guidelines for LPS corals:

• Temperature: 24 to 26 °C
• Salinity: 34 to 35 ‰ (specific gravity approx. 1.024 to 1.026)
• KH: 7 to 9 dKH
• Calcium: 400 to 450 mg/l
• Magnesium: 1,250 to 1,400 mg/l
• Nitrate: 2 to 15 mg/l
• Phosphate: 0.03 to 0.1 mg/l

A completely nutrient-poor tank is not ideal for Euphyllia. Slightly measurable nitrate and phosphate levels support colour and growth. Rapid changes, especially in KH, on the other hand are a common trigger for tissue recession. With reliable saltwater test kits you can keep an eye on the key parameters.

Feeding

Euphyllia live largely on the metabolic products of their zooxanthellae. Occasional target feeding can additionally support growth and colour. Suitable foods are fine LPS food, powdered food or small pieces of thawed mysis. It is better to feed small amounts once or twice a week than to burden the tank with lots of food. Briefly switch off or reduce the flow during feeding so that the polyps can grab the food.

Torch coral: special features of Euphyllia glabrescens

The torch coral is the best-known Euphyllia and is considered easy to keep when conditions are right. However, it is sensitive to stinging and strong flow, and its sweeper tentacles require the most space. You can find detailed tips on placement, light and water parameters in our article on caring for Euphyllia glabrescens.

Common problems and what you can do

Polyps stay closed

After placing the coral or moving it, this is normal at first. If the coral stays closed for several days, check flow, light and possible stinging by neighbours.

Tissue receding from the skeleton

Tissue recession can have many causes, such as fluctuating water parameters, injuries or stress from other corals. A brownish, slimy mass on the tissue may indicate brown jelly. You should quickly separate affected heads from the rest of the colony and look for the cause.

A head breaks down in branching colonies

In branching forms, a problem often affects only individual heads at first. If they are removed in time, the rest of the colony often survives. Healthy Euphyllia can also be propagated in the same way.

Conclusion

With stable water parameters, moderate light, variable flow and enough distance from other corals, torch, hammer and frogspawn corals are rewarding to keep. You will find a selection in our Euphyllia category and further suitable species under LPS corals. With our listings marked as WYSIWYG, you receive exactly the animal shown.

Premium Reefing

Korallen und Zubehör aus einer Hand

Sorgfältig ausgewählte Korallen, viele davon als WYSIWYG-Einzelstück, dazu alles für Pflege, Technik und Eingewöhnung.

Korallen entdecken →